What we loved
Maitland is such a great old town. It was one of the busiest and most prosperous regional centres in Australia in it’s hey day – providing agricultural produce to Sydney via the Hunter River. There are a rather mind boggling number of spectacular old buildings spanning many eras of its long history – a smorgasbord of surprises. But these days there’s also great places to stay, eat and enjoy.
What we did
Heritage walks
Such is the interest in the history of this charming Hunter Valley city – the council has obligingly produced self guided heritage walk maps to lead you around some of the grand, the glorious and interesting. There are two maps – one for Maitland’s central precinct and the other for East Maitland. There’s a bit of information on all the most notable buildings. We only had time to do the central precinct. It’s a lot of walking – but it’s all flat. The grandeur of some of the architecture speaks volumes about the wealth this town once possessed and the diversity of the inhabitants – churches and synagogues, imposing public buildings, stately old homes and quaint little cottages. Don’t forget to glance down side streets because while the heritage walks include a lot of buildings there plenty that aren’t on the list. The unusually ornate 1840s masonic lodge building in Victoria Street for example – with its Arabesque design. It was the first lodge in Australia formed outside Sydney.
Maitland Regional Art Gallery
The site of the gallery has had many purposes over it’s long history since the 1930s: a tailor’s, a candle factory, soap making, and a general store, and a coach and buggy factory. Later it became a technical college and then a museum and finally an art gallery in 2003. It’s a lovely old building and inside make sure you look up the the beautiful glass dome above the stairs. During our visit to Maitland Regional Art Gallery we enjoyed an exhibition of Lionel Lindsay etchings, wood engravings, woodblocks, watercolours and books – which continues until April 2018, and the whimsical and quirky art of Alison McDonald formed from recycled materials and vibrant colours. That one finishes up in December. There’s a cafe to sit in if you want to contemplate the wonder of it all.
Country drive
You don’t have to go far out of Maitland to be back in the countryside. The wide flood plain of the Hunter Rivers is criss-crossed by narrow roads that are well worth a peaceful drive. It’s a reminder that Maitland’s history and prosperity was based on the fertile farm lands which surround it. And while you’re out there , don’t forget to call into Walka Waterworks Reserve. This beautiful historic building with it’s distinctive chimney was once responsible for getting reliable water not just to Maitland but to Newcastle. The nearby lake was a reservoir and is hemmed in by an old sandstone wall. These days its a quiet picnic area, with a miniature railway which runs twice a month, and lots of places for a quiet walk.
Maitland Gaol
Of all the things we did in Maitland – visiting the gaol was the most thought-provoking. No two ways about it – it’s confronting to walk the same bleak halls as the likes of serial killer Ivan Milat and a parade of other cold blooded murderers. The gaol received it’s first prisoners in December 1848 and it closed in 1998 – 150 long, hard, years later. Many of the original structures including cell blocks, toilets, awnings and artworks are still there. You can pick up a self guided audio tour at the front office – and it’s seriously interesting. Interviews with prison officers and former inmates, stories that make your hair stand on end. Allow plenty of time for this. Alternatively there are guided tours as well.
Maitland Markets
The markets are housed in the historic showground in the suburb of Louth Park on the first Sunday of the month and are incredibly popular. Literally hundreds of stalls selling everything from bric-a-brac and antiques through to crafts and baked goods. If you enjoy fossicking around a market – this is a biggie!
Where we ate
Maitland has a growing food scene and there was no shortage of places to eat. We enjoyed breakfast at The Orange Tree which has a charming outdoor area which looks out across the Hunter River. Great coffee and proper leaf tea in a pot (yay). Delicious omelette and great service a nice location. We popped into My Favourite Chair for a light lunch. Clearly a popular spot with locals. Lunch of smashed avo on toast, with fruit toast with seasonal fresh fruit was a treat – all served quickly and the service was great. Both the above can be found in The Levee shopping precinct which runs by beside the Hunter River. After you visit the gaol it’s well worth calling into Blackbird Artisan Bakery. It operates on the gaol site – in what was the former Warden’s Cafeteria near the main gates on John Street. Does breakfast, lunch and morning and afternoon teas.
Where we stayed
The Old Victoria inn at East Maitland was a delight. Built as an inn in 1845, it’s fell into disrepair but has now been restored and operates as a bed and breakfast, bar and restaurant. The rooms are large and in keeping with the history of the building. Our host with a twinkle in his eye told us to watch out for Angry Kevin, the resident ghost, but we saw no sign of him. There is a shared bathroom and a “drawing room” where you can make tea and toast, lounge about and chat.
But best of all, downstairs there is a bar serving craft beer and whisky where you can enjoy a few quiet ones before dinner. No worries about driving! Then pop into the dining room for a seriously excellent meal. The soft shell crab with sweet Asian salad, charred lime and seeded mustard aioli was subtle and delicious and the slow braised lamb shoulder with Paris mash, mint lamb jus, greens and kumera chips was done perfectly. Breakfast the following morning was equally good. One of us savoured the baked eggs, house made hocked beans, chorizo served with toasted sourdough, onion jam and marinated feta. The other had corn fritters, poached egg and bacon topped with avocado salsa. The staff were helpful and friendly and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay.
