What we loved about Wingham

• UPDATE (Feb 15) : Wingham has had some much needed rainfall since our visit in January  – around 200mm.  Absolutely fantastic news.  But the Mid North Coast region and Wingham still need you to come and enjoy all they have to offer.

The friendliness, determination and optimism of local people was the thing that impressed us most about the lovely Manning River Valley town of Wingham.

The town and the region has been hit hard by the prolonged drought. Agriculture is usually an economic mainstay, but at the moment, things are very challenging indeed. Then the bushfires came in November, roaring through farms, bushland and national parks, destroying property, encircling the town and causing a collapse in normally busy summer tourism. Level 4 water restrictions are in place which means virtually no outside watering of any kind.

Don’t be fooled by the current “painted on” green in the valley. It’s been driven by some moderate rain in the last month, but much more is needed to restore this noramlly vibrant district.

But despite these obvious troubles, the people just keep on going. The lady at the museum who stayed with her husband to defend their rural property from the fires who still keeps turning up for her volunteer shift, despite feeling “traumatised”.

The determined group of farmers market stall holders who refuse to let their market disappear despite dwindling numbers of stall holders and the difficulties of securing produce and visitors.

The macadamia nut farmer whose operation was first hurt by the drought, then by the bushfires and then finally by flocks of starving black cockatoos whose normal feeding grounds were incinerated by the inferno.

The cafes that open every day with their  diplay cabinets packed with delicious cakes and slices even though things are really quiet.

You can definitely help Wingham recover by just turning up to spend your money. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit and we look forward to going back to the region soon.

What we did

Shopping

The Wingham Farmers Market is held on the first Saturday of each month at the Wingham Showground. It’s been a fixture of the town since 2003, supplying locally and regionally grown and made fresh food and products. The market opens at 8am and finishes at noon. We were practially first in the door, and while there is no doubt it’s shrunk for the time being, we came home with a haul of delicious local produce. Shops in town will welcome you warmly too, and they need the customers.

What we bought

• Organic garlic (Barefoot Garlic)
• Honey roasted macadamia nuts (Hand ‘n’ Hoe organics)
• Mulberry Jam  (The Edible Forest)
• Six pack of  craft beer (The Coastal Brewing Company)
• Two bottles of verdelho frizzante  (Old Inn Road Vinyard)
• A pair of linen shorts  (Ashlea Road Boutique)

Step back in time

As the oldest town in the Manning River Valley, there is plenty for the history buff. There’s a self-guided history walk to take your around the town’s most notable buildings and they’re conveniently located within a couple of blocks. We took an early morning stroll before breakfast. There are 21 points of interest and you can pick up a map at the museum. Architecture ranges from the quaint 1911 butcher’s shop to the iconic 1889 Australia Hotel and the grand Wingham Memorial Town Hall built in the 1920s.

Local history

Perhaps the best place to get a feel for the district’s history is at the well curated Wingham Museum in Farquar Street. It’s housed in an 1860s building which was once a produce store and is largely unchanged. Where some country town museums are just a jumble of local memorabilia piled up in no particular fashion, this one has been well organised thematically.

We got a great sense of the town’s Indigenous and European history – timber cutting, agriculture, business, people and lifestyles. Well worth a few hours. There is also a display of material relating to the life of Jimmy Governor, whose tragic story is immortalized in The Chant of Jimmy Blacksmith by Thomas Keneally, and includes the cell in which he was held before his transfer to Sydney. It’s a very sad and sobering tale.

Extraordinary survivor

One on Wingham’s best known places is about 20 hectares of remnant Lowland Rainforest on Floodplain – known as Wingham Brush. It’s on the banks of the Manning River, just a short stroll from the centre of town. It’s an incredibly rare ecological community and in normal conditions it contains hundreds of species of trees, plants and vines. Giant figs tower overhead. Many bird species have been recorded.

A colony of grey headed flying foxes also roosts there. But conditions have been far from normal for a long time, and the drought has impacted on the reserve. But having said that, a stroll along the boardwalk that winds through this surviving bit of forest is still worth a look. The bats hang on, although in reduced numbers. Birds flit in and out of the undergrowth. It needs rain, and a lot of it. Fingers crossed that will come soon.

Afternoon drive

We decided to take an afternoon drive to Ellenborough Falls, which is about 40km north. This drive will take you out through some confronting bushfire scenes. Blackened trees line the road into the village of Bobin where the historic timber school burned down in November. Incredibly the little school has reopened just months on after some determined efforts by the Department of Education.

The road then continues up into the hills. It’s dirt, but navigable for two-wheel drive vehicles. Prepare yourself for some sobering sights of devastation by the fires. There’s no point sugar coating things. It’s awful. Hillside after hillside of blackened, bare, trees incinerated by the inferno.

It must be seen to be believed. It must have been absolutely terrifying to witness. Some trees are springing back to life, but real recovery requires good rain. Eventually you will reach Elands, and a bit further on, the turn off to the falls. It’s one of the highest single drop waterfalls in Australia and it’s flowing despite the dry. There’s a little kiosk up there for a drink and a snack.

What we ate

When it comes to excellent cafes, Wingham punches above its weight. We enjoyed a delicious lunch at the region’s most awarded tourism cafe restaurant, Bent on Food. They won the 2016 Restaurant and Catering Award for Best Regional Cafe in NSW.

They focus on local produce with a varied seasonal menu. Great atmosphere and friendly service topped it off. We popped into Garden Grub Cafe for breakfast, and it was excellent. Housed in an historic building, it had a great vibe. The food was delicious and the staff friendly and helpful. They also try to feature local produce.

Evening meals were a bit more limited, with the Australian Hotel, Wingham Ex-services Club or the local Chinese the main options. We decided on the RSL which was doing a roaring trade. We sat out on the verandah which overlooks the town’s Central Park which was a great spot for a cold beer on a hot day. The food was good solid club food and we were very happy to watch the sun and the beers go down on the verandah. Taree is only 8km away, and there are more options there is you want that.

Where we stayed

We chose Wingham Motel for our stay, mostly because of its central location and pool (hey, it’s summer). The staff were helpful with suggestions of things to do. The rooms were very clean and comfortable and a welcome respite from the heat at times.  We could literally stroll down the street to explore the town and find great places to eat.