What we loved
We came to Brunswick Heads for a short five day break and the main aim was to rest and relax. This small NSW coastal township has such a laid back atmosphere it would be hard not to unwind even if you didn’t want to. Somehow it has managed to retain a charming old-school seaside village holiday atmosphere – despite the rapid development around Bryon Bay (just 15 minutes south) and on the Gold Coast (30 minutes north). The town lies at the confluence of Simpson Creek and the Brunswick River – and these waterways are central to the unique charm of Brunswick.
Quaint wooden bridges traverse the river allowing residents and visitors to cross to the beach. The sound of the the ocean rolling in is the background track to life in Brunswick. But make no mistake – this town is no backwater – and is well serviced by a variety of cafes and restaurants, some speciality retailers and many kinds of accommodation. We did a bit of exploring around the region – but every day we were glad to get back to Brunswick with last light over the river, its quiet streets and the sound of the crashing surf off in the distance. We also loved the prevailing autumn weather during our visit at the end of April. Warm days, cool nights, water still warm for swimming.
What we did
Take a walk
Brunswick is a town just made for walking and exploring. It’s a pretty small place so the main shopping precinct is very compact and easy to negotiate. But if you venture a bit further, you’ll find pretty streets, lovely old trees and a characteristic collection of homes and buildings – reminiscent of Brunswick’s early holiday past.
The beach
A walk on the lovely beach is a must. If fact, if you are up for it, you could walk all the way to Byron Bay via the beach and then back in about 6 hours. That’s around 20km – and a bit far for us on this occasion. It’s a well used beach that’s for sure – lots of walkers and joggers, people doing yoga and meditating with the morning sun on their faces. Others frolicked with their dogs. The water was certainly warm enough for swimming – but you should note the beach is not patrolled – so swimmers need to take special care.
Finding fairies
How many towns can boast that they cater to fairies? Brunswick can and you will start noticing cute little fairy houses around the place. They are tucked away here and there around town, so it’s a bit or a treasure hunt if you’ve got kids. There is a map available at The Visitors Centre to guide you to explore the Fairy Trail, but half the fun was in having them appear unexpectedly. The fairy houses are made of recycled stuff and carry positive messages about living simply, being kind, being loving, and protecting nature. Super cute.
Where we stayed
We booked into the North Coast Holiday Parks Terrace Reserve in a lovely little cabin overlooking Simpson Creek. The cabin was spacious, clean and well equipped and better than all of that it was so close to everything that really mattered – the footbridge to the beach and the cafes and restaurants of the main street. The view from the little front verandah was wonderful, peaceful and relaxing. If we decided to eat in – there was a barbecue outdoors and well equipped kitchen indoors. We’d stay there again for sure.
What we ate
There are lots to choose from. We had a breakfast and lunch at Footbridge Cafe on Brunswick Terrace – also overlooking the river. It’s open seven days with a focus on organic. You can get a local coffee and they use locally sourced ingredients. Also one for the tea drinkers too – they make a great pot of tea!
If you’ve got a thing for pasta – don’t miss the Park Street Home Made Pasta Bar. It was a full house the night we were there – testament to how delicious the food is. Like everything in Brunswick – it’s in walking distance so you can enjoy a couple of wines with dinner (you’ll need to bring your own).
Surely nobody could resist the lure of the 1940s Hotel Brunswick right in the heart of town and overlooking the Brunswick River. The charming architecture, the courtyard beer-garden with its giant Poinciana trees. If you do nothing else, call in for a drink. They also serve a solid pub-style menu and they’ve got a reputation for hosting great live music (indeed there was a great band there the night we called in and everyone was up on their feet and dancing).
Day trips
There’s a lot of things to do around Brunswick if you get tired of taking it easy. On one day we set off early and drove for 80 minutes inland to Nightcap National Park for a very well known walk to beautiful Minyon Falls. This walk will lead you down through rainforest filled with ferns, and palms and majestic tall eucalypts. Repentance Creek – the origin of Minyon Falls – rushes on over huge boulders at the bottom of the gorge. The only difficulty on the way to the base of the falls is a bit of a scramble up some rocks…but it’s so worth it. The walk back up to the carpark is surprisingly easy thanks to a series of zig zags which are not too challenging.
Mullumbimby
We spent a leisurely morning strolling around the town of Mullumbimby which, like so many spots around Byron, is noted for its “alternative” lifestyle and counter culture. Lots of shops selling alternative clothing, but also lot’s of art galleries and locally produced wares and fares. The amount of public space art jumps out at you but also reflects the strong sense of community. For the foodies and the coffee nuts, there’s plenty to choose from. If you’re a tea drinker – good news – unlike so many places we’ve been – you can also get a good cup of tea – with real tea leaves – served hot in a pot (not tea bags). Only tea drinkers will know what a rare thing that is.
Bangalow
While you’re in the region you should definitely call in to the gorgeous historic town of Bangalow. Once a timber cutting area – these days its far better known for its modern cafe and boutique shops and great art galleries. Its monthly market is a doozie – one of the best we’ve ever been to. It’s held on the fourth Sunday in the local showgrounds with it’s fantastic old 1911 pavilion. You could wander around this market all day with it’s hundreds of stalls. Lots of locally made and locally grown. Its so popular that finding a car park can be something of a challenge – but once you do – Bangalow won’t disappoint you. We had a really delicious lunch at the one-hatted Town Restaurant – but you’ll be seriously spoiled for choice in Bangalow.
